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ritaxis: (hat)
Sunday, May 29th, 2016 08:26 am
So I did buy a lovely pair of red suede sneakers. The sole on these is actually lighter than the sole on the shoes they're replacing, so they feel very nice. Also, I barely needed to size up on them, whereas in the model that was more like the ones I'm replacing the size difference was more clear. What I think I will do is wait until winter to replace the (new! this year! and already bought twice because the first pair was stoilen off my porch!) hiking/rain boots.

But while I was there I decided to just check my size on the good old Industry Standard Foot Rule that they keep at the shoe store. Just to check, you know, and to be able to say what my "real" size is...

Well. That was a surprise, and it leads me to ask some questions about the shoe industry. Because according to the good old Industry Standard Foot Rule that is the same in all shoe stores in the United States and has been exactly the same in design as long as I can remember...my feet are size seven and a half. Which is still a change since high school, remember, when I measured a size six (but always bought sevens because 7D would go on my feet and 6EEEE didn't exist). But I have to buy size nine--for length. Not for width, which in this particular style was quite well addressed by the 8-1/2.

Now, I'm used to this in the garment industry, but there the discrepancy is largely in the other direction. I mean when you buy clothes at the store the size is about two sizes smaller in name than it is in the industry standard that it's made to. So if you buy a size 20 shirt in a department store, and then you decide to make a shirt from a pattern, most likely you will need a size 24 pattern. Not that you can find a size 24 pattern for a wearable shirt currently-- pattern companies have abandoned my size range again, which I suppose is just as well as they've also given up actually drafting larger patterns and just increase some of the outlines and leave some of them the same without rhyme or reason. I've bitten the bullet and determined I have to draft my own patterns from now on. I have even made an agreement with Emma to spend a day sometime soon taking each other's many measurements and drafting slopers together. She's the expert after seven years in theatrical costume shops.

To return to shoe sizing and what is so puzzling about this. It's easy to see what has happened to department store clothes sizing, especially when you add in the observation that if you wear a size 20 in an inexpensive department store you will fit into an 18 or even a 16 in an expensive one. Obviously there's a bit of vanity sizing going on there. Historically, I know, too, that the entire garment industry re-organized sizing about 45? years ago--I was alive and aware but pretty young--and the "new" sizing put smaller numbers on bigger sizes. That was not the whole of the reform--if I remember right, they also aligned different body type sizing ranges so that their numbers looked more similar to each other and changed the names of some of the sizing ranges. So there are at least two forces in sizing misalignments in women's clothes: vanity sizing and attempts to rationalize sizing. And another one: periodically, deigners will come up with their own proprietary new size ranges that are supposed to address some problem or other in sizing and promise the buyer a better size. So that works against rationalization by proliferating new size ranges.

But what is going on with shoes? Supposedly most people can buy almost the exact same size, give or take a half size, in any brand of shoes. I've never heard anyone com plain that they have to buy a six in one brand and an eight in another brand, which people do complain about with respect to women's clothing (I myself have bought reasonably-fitting clothes labelled in a six-size range). I can't comment directly on this because at any time in my life there's usually only one brand of shoes that sujits my purpose. For a long time it was Drew, and now it's Keen.

But if it's true that shoe sizing is pretty consistent across the industry, and yet the shoes I just bought are labeled a size and a half  larger than the industry standard, does that mean that the shoe industry has unanimously adopted a new secret standard for shoe sizes? Why? And if they've done that, why is it in this direction? Do shoe buyers really want to think their feet are longer than they are? I thought the idea of having big feet was still mildly embarrassing to people who cared about it at all. Has this changed? Well, I know men sometimes brag about how big their feet are,  but they usually do it by way of complaining about it.

Well, this is trivial, but it occupied my mind for a bit. Later I have something to say about the folkdance memorial I attended last night.
ritaxis: (hat)
Tuesday, July 22nd, 2014 01:17 pm
I can't buy my tickets until my new new visa card comes (I am not sure but it is possible that I ran into a phishing site when trying to get "verified by visa" happening. No harm is done: I was suspicious early on, mopved my money out of the account until I could talk to the credit union, and discontinued the possibly-compromised card). So I'm getting ready in another way. I have stashes of lovely plaid and solid cottons so I am making new clothes (I haven't bought new ones in forever because I'm wearing out hand-me-downs from my stepmother). Today I spent a couple of hours modifying a jumper pattern. I fall between two sizes, so I had to draft the compromise anyway, so while I was at it I made some changes. There was no reason for the center seam in the skirt, so I fixed that (and yes, I do know how to tell if the center seam serves a sensible purpose). I also dropped the waist to a natural waist length (it was at that odd slightly-high length that all the dresses seemed to come in ten to twenty years ago), added more ease in the bust and hip, and raised the hem from what was supposed to be above-ankle length (actually floor-dragging for me) to below-knee length.

I used to like long skirts, but now I prefer below-knee length. I think it's because I'm too old to be a Hobbit.

The cloth is a nice midweight light green twill with white warp (like very lightweight denim, actually). The green is as light as leaf green, but it's bluer than that. The closest Pantone match I found was 360, but it's more saturated than my cloth.

So now I'm going to play sims for a bit, and then I'm going to sew my jumper up. Next is a campshirt of (what else) monotone green plaid, After that, we'll see. If I have time for it, a skirt, another shirt, a nightgown, and a camisole or two (the old fashioned kind that has a whole shirt front instead of spaghetti straps). I have the cloth for it.

At this point it no longer matters if it costs a bit more to make my own clothes. I absolutely cannot find the clothes I like anywhere. What I like is simple pants, shorts and skirts, with a decent amount of ease, in simple colors, plaids and stripes, and the occasional leaf print (and rarely, some kind of Ms. Frizzle print). What I do not like is the jumbly fancy-grunge print with random ugly-shiny embellishments on weird cloth that is pretty much all I can find in town, and I don't like necklines that go low or wovens that are cut close to the body. But this is all there is in my size range, in my price range, and in my geographical range. So fooey on it, Im making my own.
ritaxis: (hat)
Tuesday, June 4th, 2013 07:28 pm
I've been offline more than on since Friday. There are multiple issues. My ISP had its own troubles: they were doing one of those maintenance things for a while on Friday, and on Saturday they had a crash for a while. There also seems to be something wrong with my router, so that sitting absolutely next to it with the tablet I can't get a strong enough signal to finish authenticating. In addition, we had a short at the box that just got fixed, so that meant no phone and no internet at all for most of yesterday and today. Since I'm trying to get files on to the tablet so I can use it to write while I'm on the plane and thus not allowed to connect to the cloud storage, I'm very frustrated.

I've started packing. Phase 1 is identify everything I could possibly want to take and put it in and around the suitcase and carryons. Phase 2 is saying "that's too much crap" and taking it all out again and sifting through it for what I really want. Phase 3 is "wait, I can't last that long with only that," and sifting through the rejects for more stuff. Et cetera. Later, when it is closer to departure time, I get to the phases involving realizing I have forgotten exteremely important things I need to live. I hope to execute those phases before takeoff.

Part of Phase 1 is mending things and hemming things I have never bothered to hem before (almost everything I own that could be too long is). Today I did an eccentric job of shortening pants that could not be hemmed because of the stratewgic placement of zippers and snaps at the bottom. I attempted to replace buttons but apparely Emma has all the buttons? I need to talk to her about multiple things.

I am now in possession of my knee xrays. Each knee has a particular place where bone touches bone: the rest of the knee is normal looking. Also, the doctor's notes say the right knee is worse but the right knee doesn't hurt at all these days.
ritaxis: (Default)
Wednesday, February 8th, 2012 08:01 am
It only took me half an hour of fruitless reading in wikipedia and beyond to realize that the people who write about the history of clothes online have no idea what they're talking about and don't care.

It's not that I find a lot of errors in these articles. Who could? They are so vague and unhelpful that they could tell straight-up lies and be no more or less true. I'm trying to find out what a junior clerk in a government ministry would wear to work every day, and what his chief minister would wear, in Eastern Europe, at the turn of the 19th-29th centuries. I know I'm not going to get much that is Eastern Europe specific, but I can hope to get a "continental" look. But no. I get a lot of blather that doesn't distinguish among classes, doesn't distinguish among types of clothing other than "formal" and "informal." Well, in the article on tailcoats there's a lot of discussion as to what to wear when riding horses for recreation. This is not helpful. There's not even an explanation of whether businessmen wore "morning coats," and it can't be taken for granted, as the wording nearby implies that they're only talking about the most rarified members of society.

I have found some pictures of laboring men from the period, over the years, so if Yanek was a miner or a carpenter's apprentice I could dress him rather confidently. Also, I can dress Bulo, the young peasant he admires. I can dress Bulo for plowing, for chestnut gathering, for going to a party, and for getting married. Yanek I just guess at. And when he imagines himself the Chief Minister in the future, as the Duke plans for him, I am forced to try to imagine what dressing somewhat like a prince but less so would look like, because princes and presidents is all you get.

I should go to the library.
ritaxis: (Default)
Saturday, October 6th, 2007 10:25 pm
So the dear boy has a journal. Go read it: it's really good, though alarming. Culture clash! Linguistical revelations!

And I went to Lane Bryant (which is far away, and we only went because we were already over the hill*) and discovered I wear a really tiny number in Lane Bryant knit tops, though in clearance-rack crop pants I wore the size I kind of expected to wear.

And you know how the cut and fit of clothes changes over time? Right now sleeves and armholes and shoulders are being cut in a way that it sort of disastrous for me. The line of the shoulder is too narrow (though there is still too much cloth over the bust, if the thing fits at all), and the armhole is cut too high, which means 1) the shoulder seam is about halfway to my neck and stands up in an awkward little point over my shoulder and 2) if I lift my arm the shirt strains all weird between the bust and the armpit. Altogether it looks like the shirt is way way too small and way too big at the same time.

I decided that, rather than fail to get replacements for the clothing I have to get rid of (really I'm not vain but there's a limit to how clownish I want to look. And the pants I bought two weeks ago are already sliding off), I would get a couple of shirts that were okay enough looking. I also succeeded in finding 3 pairs of pants. One I think is supposed to be shorts, but they hit me a few inches below the knee and if I can find coordinating knee socks I will like them. One I think is supposed to be knee-length, but they're kind of plus-fourish, a little longer than that. And the other is all the way down to my ankle so I think they're supposed to be capris. Considering it's getting cold I think I need socks.
I also got bras that fit and have no lace to disintegrate right at the worst time, and socks, though since they are strongly patterned I'm not sure how well they go with the pants and shirts.

*we went over the hill to celebrate the birthdays of both the nice fellow's brothers and to nag the oldest to eat vegetables. And watch a video of my nephew skydiving. He's really a go-do-it young man, and pleasant. Also said nephew and his father seem to be getting radicalized, which is an odd sensation, though welcome.
ritaxis: (Default)
Monday, March 20th, 2006 11:26 pm
So my very most lovely friend Mary Porter lost a lot of weight and I didn't and she sent me two boxes of nice clothes in excellent condition. I have snagged the ones that work for me and I still have a box of clothes that don't work for me for various reasons. I think it would be pleasant to emulate Mary and find someone to send these to. Basically, it amounts to four outfits, all roughly women's size 24, generously.Very detailed list behind the cut. )
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