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ritaxis: (hat)
Sunday, May 29th, 2016 08:26 am
So I did buy a lovely pair of red suede sneakers. The sole on these is actually lighter than the sole on the shoes they're replacing, so they feel very nice. Also, I barely needed to size up on them, whereas in the model that was more like the ones I'm replacing the size difference was more clear. What I think I will do is wait until winter to replace the (new! this year! and already bought twice because the first pair was stoilen off my porch!) hiking/rain boots.

But while I was there I decided to just check my size on the good old Industry Standard Foot Rule that they keep at the shoe store. Just to check, you know, and to be able to say what my "real" size is...

Well. That was a surprise, and it leads me to ask some questions about the shoe industry. Because according to the good old Industry Standard Foot Rule that is the same in all shoe stores in the United States and has been exactly the same in design as long as I can remember...my feet are size seven and a half. Which is still a change since high school, remember, when I measured a size six (but always bought sevens because 7D would go on my feet and 6EEEE didn't exist). But I have to buy size nine--for length. Not for width, which in this particular style was quite well addressed by the 8-1/2.

Now, I'm used to this in the garment industry, but there the discrepancy is largely in the other direction. I mean when you buy clothes at the store the size is about two sizes smaller in name than it is in the industry standard that it's made to. So if you buy a size 20 shirt in a department store, and then you decide to make a shirt from a pattern, most likely you will need a size 24 pattern. Not that you can find a size 24 pattern for a wearable shirt currently-- pattern companies have abandoned my size range again, which I suppose is just as well as they've also given up actually drafting larger patterns and just increase some of the outlines and leave some of them the same without rhyme or reason. I've bitten the bullet and determined I have to draft my own patterns from now on. I have even made an agreement with Emma to spend a day sometime soon taking each other's many measurements and drafting slopers together. She's the expert after seven years in theatrical costume shops.

To return to shoe sizing and what is so puzzling about this. It's easy to see what has happened to department store clothes sizing, especially when you add in the observation that if you wear a size 20 in an inexpensive department store you will fit into an 18 or even a 16 in an expensive one. Obviously there's a bit of vanity sizing going on there. Historically, I know, too, that the entire garment industry re-organized sizing about 45? years ago--I was alive and aware but pretty young--and the "new" sizing put smaller numbers on bigger sizes. That was not the whole of the reform--if I remember right, they also aligned different body type sizing ranges so that their numbers looked more similar to each other and changed the names of some of the sizing ranges. So there are at least two forces in sizing misalignments in women's clothes: vanity sizing and attempts to rationalize sizing. And another one: periodically, deigners will come up with their own proprietary new size ranges that are supposed to address some problem or other in sizing and promise the buyer a better size. So that works against rationalization by proliferating new size ranges.

But what is going on with shoes? Supposedly most people can buy almost the exact same size, give or take a half size, in any brand of shoes. I've never heard anyone com plain that they have to buy a six in one brand and an eight in another brand, which people do complain about with respect to women's clothing (I myself have bought reasonably-fitting clothes labelled in a six-size range). I can't comment directly on this because at any time in my life there's usually only one brand of shoes that sujits my purpose. For a long time it was Drew, and now it's Keen.

But if it's true that shoe sizing is pretty consistent across the industry, and yet the shoes I just bought are labeled a size and a half  larger than the industry standard, does that mean that the shoe industry has unanimously adopted a new secret standard for shoe sizes? Why? And if they've done that, why is it in this direction? Do shoe buyers really want to think their feet are longer than they are? I thought the idea of having big feet was still mildly embarrassing to people who cared about it at all. Has this changed? Well, I know men sometimes brag about how big their feet are,  but they usually do it by way of complaining about it.

Well, this is trivial, but it occupied my mind for a bit. Later I have something to say about the folkdance memorial I attended last night.
ritaxis: (hat)
Saturday, May 28th, 2016 07:54 am
One of the more vivid images from the Phillipine "People Power Revolution" which brought down the dictator Marcos and was supposed to bring democracy, representation, peace, justice, and economic development to the Phillipines forever was Imelda Marcos' shoe closet which had an unimaginable number of bespoke shoes in it, all of them of course outrageous impractical fashion items with spike heels. It would be difficult to tell most of them apart, and they all cost ridiculous amounts of money. Of course the news out of the Phillipines is continously terrible, but you knew that would happen, didn't you? You can remove the dictator, but if you leave the colonial relationships in place you have not liberated the people.

But it's shoes I want to talk about. Lately my feet have been bruised around the edges. I've finally had to conclude that my once-perfectly fitting shoes have grown too small for me. Of course it is not the shoes that have changed size: they are not made of shrinkable fabric and I have not washed them in hot water and heat-dried them. Nope, my feet have grown again. Of course, ingeneral, adults do have size creep on their feet. They might get a bit wider or a bit longer or both over the years, so that they graduate high school a size 7B and in old age they're wearing a size 8C--I'm using US women's sizes here.

I graduated high school with a size 6EEEE. I'm going to go downtown and try to pick up an equivalent to a size 9D today. I say equivalent because lately only Keen shoes work for me, and they don't come in widths, but they do, somehow, go on my feet, which measure a D. In addition to having wide feet, I also have tall feet--high instep and low arch means a lot of foot. So I also have to buy shoes with removable insoles, and remove those insoles, before I can walk around in them. Fortunately I have strong feet that don't need arch supports at all (arch supports bother my feet, actually).

Shoes being rather expensive, my budget is usually one pair of any type per year. I think I've mentioned that I have one each pair of hiking sandals, hiking sneakers, hiking boots, hiking babydoll flats, and hiking velveteen slipons. By "hiking" I mean "has fancypants hiking soles of hard rubber or vibram." I don't prefer these soles: in an ideal world, I would have lighter shoes, though these are all very light considering. Also in an ideal world I would have knee boots in red suede with soft flat bottoms and maybe folkart embroidered flowers on them, for dancing. But nobody asked me when they drew up the standards for footwear.

What this brings me to is yet another cancer metaphor, only it starts out as a metaphor for social revolution. One of my favorite childhood books is called "The Land of Shvambrania" and it was written by Lev Kassil, who was a Soviet children's author (and probably, from my reading of one of his other books, the execrable Early Dawn, a terrible party hack, but this one book was really wonderful). I know I've talked about it before. It is a kind of memoir of the way he and his brother used their fantasy play to deal with their experiences before, during, and directly after the 1917 revolution. The first parts of the book are a bit comic, and sometimes they read like a portal fantasy (which was my first attraction to the book as a kid). Later, it gets more serious as the kids attempt to adjust to the radical changes in their lives. In one scene, tyheir family is visited by representatives of the local evolutionary council. They've lost a lot, not only from the privations of civil war, but they used to be comfortably middle-class and various of their comforts have been expropriated. The leader of the delegation is a shoemaker and he asks the kids' father how his shoes, which he made, are holding up, The dad praises the shoes, says one of them is squeaking a little, and the revolutionary says to bring them by and he'll fix them. The dad says those shoes work a lot better than the revolution. The leader says "that's because we can't make the revolution to fit you personally."

As a kid I was really impressed by this, because it gave me a context to understand how something that was clearly supposed to be so very good for everybody could be bad for particular people. We were always hearing about how this or that person who had had a good life before 1917 or before 1956 in Cuba had lost everything due to revolution (a lot of the Cuban stories didn't add up to me, because they featured people who seemed to be doing just fine in Miami, so I kept wondering, if this is what "lost everything" looks like, what does "kept everything" look like?), but on the other hand, there were these statistics about pre- and post-revolutionary measures of quality of life.

I am most definitely not angling for a human rights argument here, I am just talking about one particular thing in a story.

Anyway, how the shoemaker becomes a cancer metaphor--well, it's obvious, isn't it? But actually the personal fit of my cancer treatment has been pretty finely tuned. No ativan for nausea because it works too much like vallium which makes me stop breathing. On the other hand I can have the "dense" treatment of Adriamycin because I have a strong heart. I can have this particular drug treatment on the other end of chemotherapy and radiation because of the estrogen sensitivity of the cells in the tumor. And so on. But...

In the news today is an article in the Lancet, the abstract of which you can read here (if you have access to the Lancet, or you pay thirty dollars, you can read the whole thing). The rather ponderous title is "Economic downturns, universal health coverage, and cancer mortality in high-income and middle-income countries, 1990–2010: a longitudinal analysis" and its pricipal author is Mahiben Marathappu.  Spoiler alert: unemployment and cutbacks in health care and public health measures caused at least 40,000 extra cancer deaths in those twenty years.

Yes, AUSTERITY IS MURDER.

Capitalism is murder.


on another front: Thank you Aaron! I had the kippers with guacamole and radishes yesterday and it was really really good.